It was with great pleasure that in April 2018, we learned that Roberto Conterno had bought 90% of the shares in the house Nervi in Gattinara. But how could it be that Roberto Conterno, who is so much the epitome of world-class wines, who has always kept his production within a single Barolo commune (Serralunga d’Alba), and who does not necessarily equate change with progress, has now decided to invest heavily in Gattinara? The background is that Roberto Conterno knows the Nervi winery more than well. His close friendship with the place’s previous owner, Norwegian Erling Astrup, meant that he regularly had his walk on the farm. Roberto was fascinated by the exceptional volcanic/clayey soil of Gattinara situated beautifully at the foot of Monte Rosa. The soil and the northern location help make excellent and elegant wines with nice storage potential. Monte Rosa protects against the cold winds to the north, guarantee adequate rainfall and a constant breeze. The quality of the clay in the soil is very high and only comparable to the soil in Serralunga d’Alba in the production area of Barolo. The volcanic rock soil and the absence of lime contribute to the characteristic and important acidity of the area. Gradually, the place’s “genius loco” thus crept under his skin, and he was not for a second in doubt about the potential. Roberto Conterno wants to lift Gattinara to new heights, he says himself.
The entire appeal for Gattinara is just 120 hectares. The predominant part is planted with Nebbiolo (locally called Spanna) and a little bit of Vespolina and Uva Rara. Nervi owns 27 ha and today produces just over 120,000 bottles annually. The house is one of the oldest brands in Gattinara and dates back to the early 1900s. The grapes are grown at the sites Casacce, Caravoglie, Valferana and Molsino. The vines are between 10–40 years old and located at an altitude of 290-420 meters. Ettore Bornate has been caring for the fields since 1973, and the oenologist at the site is Enrico Fileppo, who has been the guarantor of the traditions of the place for more than 30 years.
The first vintage under our auspices is wine, which Roberto has “inherited” from the previous owners. Although he has willingly put up with sparring and advice, it is only with the year 2015 that he has had “hands-on” throughout. Nervi wines have refined and characteristic uprightness that gradually gives off a more generous expression via a certain storage on large barrels. The Valferana field possesses a high iron and magnesium content, six times higher than other areas producing Nebbiolo. The first written source on this field is dated 1228, when Rufus Musso sold his fields in parchment paper. The Molsino field forms a natural amphitheater facing south and amounts to 14.5 ha. As early as 1471, a document refers to the field “Molexinum” as one of the area’s absolute best fields.
The wine cellars are from the nineteenth century and have a constant and natural temperature. Nervi only uses large barrels between 750 liters and 7600 liters. Large cement barrels are used to stabilize the wine, and a natural yeast selected from its own fields is used for fermentation. The malolactic fermentation occurs spontaneously during the spring. For the fermentation of Valferana and Molsino, fermentation barrels made of wood are used. The official minimum storage by the consortium indicates a mandatory storage of three years, of which two are on tap. Recognizing the upright structure of their wines, Nervi chooses to store their Gattinara for a minimum of three years in barrels and a full four years for Valferanas and Molsino.